Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Felafel Fail, your oil's too hot

One of the nuptial burdens I've learned to live with is that my wife's appetite for variety meats is the barest fraction of mine.  So while I can sometimes sneak in some lengua tacos or chicken liver pate, I have to wait for her to be out of town to enjoy tripe, kidneys, tendon or other nasty bits.  But it was a surprise to learn that she's no fan of falafel either.  None of this diminishes my affection and commitment, but it does limit my practice sessions with this deceptively simple preparation. 


One thing I have learned over time is that success is not so much about the recipe but the technique.  No great epiphany, I suppose, since that's almost always the case.  But instead of obsessing over dried fava vs dried ceci, cilantro to parsley to mint to whatever ratios, or whether or not to use scallions, onions or both, I have focused on the actual frying. 


After numerous batches of charred, bocce-worthy falafel balls, I have come to the conclusion that when it comes to falafel frying temperature, lower is better.  Incidentally, this is a concept I've been warming to (pun intended) for some time.  From Robuchon's seminal cold-start frites to a growing availability of science-based information: the old saw about "high temp good, low temp greasy" is getting shopworn.  Furthermore, unlike breading, batters or just raw protein, things like herbs and spices and alliums---the stuff that falafels is made of---can just plain BURN in hot oil.  So forget the 350-375 degree world of overdone, bitter---and yes, possibly greasier---falafel.  Be like Fonzie, and cool it down to 300-325 degrees for the best results.

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